Burnout
is a brocade-like pattern fabrics that had some of the fibres dissolved through
a chemical process. The technique for making burnout fabrics was developed in
France in the early 20th century. In the fashion industry, it is known by the
name devore.
The most common chemical used cellulose fiber is
sulfuric acid, which is mixed into a colorless print paste.
The substance printed on a certain pattern will
destroy the fibers where the chemical is printed on the fabric. While the ground
fabric leaves unharmed.
The burnout technique can be done in different ways.
Fibers etch works well on rayon/silk, hemp/silk and other blends of cellulose
protein fabrics.
The technique creates a unique look for jacket,
scarves, coats and skirts. Brocade and velvet is materials often used for
burnout. The materials have thick pile, helping the pattern to stand out much
more.
Useful knowledge, especially for purchasers dealing with womenswear. Devore used in proper way may be an element of modern fashion.
Sources
Ado USA. Fabric types. http://www.ado-usa.com/DesignGuide/FabricTypes.aspx
[28.02.2012]
Damask is a type of jacquard
woven fabrics. The patterned fabric often made of natural fibers such as silk,
cotton, wool or linen. The patterns are often geometric or botanical in theme. Damask
textile is often associated with tablecloth, traditional costume, cloth
wallpapering and furnishing.
The weaving style originated
in Asia. It is woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn. Modern damasks are
woven on computerized Jacquard looms. The appearance of the pattern-surfaces is
matte and glossy. On the reverse side of the material the opposite pattern is
shown. There is therefore no real front and back of the damask.
Because the material is
thick, is has historically been used to make outer garments such as jackets.
Damask can also be seen in antique furniture. Damask is sold in several fabric
stores, and the price tends to be expensive. The reason for the high price is
because of the dense weave requires a great deal of tread. Damask is often
associated with luxury, especially silk damask.
The fashion industry has also
taken used of traditional weaving techniques; given the Damask pattern a modern
treatment. Choosing innovative fabrics that make the design more interesting,
but also fashionable.
Purchasers:
Good to know about traditional
weaving technique à which can
be used in modern fashion and make it more interesting. Simple and clean
pattern.
Sources
Ado USA. Fabric types. http://www.ado-usa.com/DesignGuide/FabricTypes.aspx
[28.02.2012]
Terry homes. Jacquards & Damaskshttp://www.terrysfabrics.co.uk/cat/curtain-fabrics/jacquards-damasks/
[28.02.2012]
Refinery 29. 10 Fall 2010
Trends From Paris, London, and Milanhttp://www.refinery29.com/8065 [28.02.2012]
I have chosen 5 related
terminologies for this assignment/blog. The material; Denim, the fibers cotton, lycra
and lyocel and at last I will look into testing of denim.
Denim
Denim is a woven fabric made primary
from cotton. Denim can be produced in an endless variety of fabric weight, dyes,
stitching etc. The classic denim is a very heavy fabric which is produced from
3/1 or 2/1 twill weave made of 100% cotton with indigo dyed warp yarn and grey
undyed weft yarns. This type of denim is very hard and has a high density. Denim
is available in different weight ranges from 6 -16 oz /square yard, where light
weighted denim has a weight of 10-12 oz/square yard and heavy denim lies in a
weight class of 14-16 oz/square yard.
Today there are four types of
compositions for a denim fabric
-2/1
twill repeat
1 2
3 4
-3/1
twill repeat: Type of weave is the most used denim composition. 3/1 twill is
darker on the back side of the denim than 2/1 twill.
1 2 3
4
-3/1
broken twill repeat
1 2 3 4
In a 3/1 broken twill, repeat no. 3
and 4 in the 3/1 twill changes places.
-
2/2
twill repeat: This weaving structure is the rarest type used for denim
composition.
Denim can be made very unique by a
lot of finishing by laser treatments, sandblasting, stonewash, bleaching, 3d
effect treatment or coloring etc. The most expensive finishing is 3D effect
treatment, because it is the most complicated treatment which needs an
expertise to manufacture.
Cotton is a natural fiber and harvested from cotton plants either by
hand or machines. The quality of the cotton depends on the weather and growing
condition, and the quality therefore varies from season to season. The cotton
plant has a height of 25 cm – 3 meters deepening on the climate and agronomy. The
color varies from white to creamy.
The story of cotton and the manufacturing process can be seen in the following video:
There are many different qualities
of cotton but only there cotton types:
•Giza cotton of Egypt and Sea Island
cotton of West Indies with a staple length from 28 mm to 50 mm and a fineness
from 3,1 μm (very fine) to about 3,9 μm (fine)
•American Upland cotton with a
staple length from 16 mm to 28 mm and a fineness from 4.0 μm (medium fine) to
about 4,9 μm (medium coarse)
•Asiatic cotton with a staple length
from 10 to 22 mm and a fineness from 5.0 μm (coarse) to about 6.0 μm (very
coarse)
Properties
The properties of cotton is that is a fine and flexible fiber and it can
absorb up to 20% of water vapor without feeling wet. Cotton is comfortable next
to skin, because of the fineness and softness. The strength is good, but it is
stronger in wet condition. The disadvantages are that cottons extensibility is
low (6-10%), and it creases and shrink easily because the electricity is low.
It takes a long time to dry because of its absorbent, and it is
therefore also cold in wet condition. Cotton does not have any insulation and
it is therefore not a good fiber to use alone for active wear.
Blend
Cotton can be blended with different synthetic man - made fibers as
nylon, acrylic, viscose and modal. By blending cotton with synthetic man - made
fibers improves the durability and easy care of the garments. Cotton is most
often blended with polyester but also nylon, acrylic, viscose and modal fibers.
Source
-Clothing technology
Lyocel The main ingredient in lyocel is cellulose, which is a natural polymer,
which can be found in cells of all plants. Lyocell is derived from the pulp of
hardwood trees which is broken down into chips during the manufacturing
process. Using chemicals the wooden chips is made into wet pulps, which is
washed, bleached and dried into sheets, which is rolled onto spools. The
spinner has small holes which the cellulose is forced through and fibers come
out.
The
fibers are taken into a solution of arrine oxide which makes the fibers stand
and washed in the minimalized water.
The
final stage is the drying stage where the water is taken out and either soap,
silicone other agents are applied in order to make it easier to card and spin
the fibers into yearn.
Properties
Lyocel is a strong fiber in both wet
and dry condition which means it lasts a long time. Lyocel has features as
resistant to wrinkles and absorbed moisture well; it is used for many different
types of garments from summer garment to athletic clothing. Beside garments, it
is also used for baby wipes, bandages, cigarette filters, some types of papers
and even reinforces some plastics.
Blend
Lyocel has features as resistant to
wrinkles and absorbed moisture well; it is used for many different types of
garments from summer garment to athletic clothing. Beside garments, it is also
used for baby wipes, bandages, cigarette filters, some types of papers and even
reinforces some plastics.
It can be mixed with many other
fibers e.g. Cotton, wool, linen, silk and Lycra. It is also possible to treat
lyocel for a variety of textures as a silky feel or a denim feel.
Lycra is a man - made fiber which
technical term is segmented polyurethane.
Its composition is flexible segments which are bonded together with hard
segments. This makes Lycra a fiber with a lasting elasticity, which can be
stretched between 4-7 times its original lengths. Lycra is a fiber containing
for soft segments lying between short hard segments, where the soft chains/segments
lies tangled in the fibers natural state. When Lycra comes under tension the
soft segments will straighten out but they will always to back to their natural
state.
Lycra is a bundle of very small
filaments which is produced in a large range of yarn counts from 11 – 1800
decitex. It is produced in dull bright, semi - transparent bright, clear and different
black versions.
Properties
Elastan is a
very stretchy fiber which cans stretch from 4 to seven times from its original
length, and has thereby the highest stretch tension of all textile raw
materials.
Elastan is
a fiber that sensitive for transpiration, cosmetics or seawater and is
therefore a good fiber used for bathing clothing. Elastan also guarantee a high
comfort and a freedom of movement.
Blend
Lycra is not used alone for finished
garments, but is always combined with either natural or man - made fibers.
Lycra can contribute to all type of fabric both knitted and woven fabric, from
denim to jersey. Lycra has its affect a fabric when containing from 2 %, where
it can improve a fabrics flexibility, drape and shape. Lycra has a greater impact on garments as
swimwear or any other active sportswear, where Lycra contains from 20-60% of
the garment.
When using lycra in a fabric and
wanting to cover it, there are five possibilities:
Single
covered lycra fibers: A non - elastic filament is wrapped around the lycra
fibers
Double
covered lycra: The lycra fiber is wrapped around with an under and outer non elastic
filament yarn.
Core
– twisted: A core twisted lycra fiber consists of a lycra fibers twisted around
with another fiber.
Core
– spun: A lycra fiber is sheeted with a non - elastic staple fibers
Interlaced
or air covered: A Lycra fiber which is interlaced at a periodic interval with
an air covered multifilament – or microfilament yarn.
Source
-“What is lycra fiber” by lycra brand
Possible quality testing of denim
In general it needs a lot of
experience to be able to determine a quality by looking at a fiber/fabric and
it is therefore necessary to ensure that the quality is as expected by using
quality testing. It is important for a purchaser that are not sure of the
quality of a garment to quality test if there might be differentiation from the
expected quality and the received quality from the supplier. Garment/fashion
companies often work with outsourcing in the Far East which means that they can
never be 100% sure of which quality they are receiving, and it is therefore very
important to ensure that it is the right quality.
Rubber fastness to rubbing is an
important quality that should be checked when the purchaser is unsecured if the
denim is staining.
Testing for rubber fastness will be
done in both wet and dry condition with a piece of denim material. For this
testing ISO 105-A01 will be used, and in order to determine and assessing the
staining ISO 105-A03 will be used, which is a grey scale that are assessing the
staining of the denim.
Conlusion
I chose to write about denim because
it is an international fabric, which is used for Jeans and many other designs
worldwide. It is very important for a purchaser in the fashion industry to know
about denim, because it is a product which never goes out of fashion, and is
used in almost every fashion and clothing company. It is important to look into
which colors and finishing processes that is possible in order to create a
unique product out of a long lasting fabric as denim.
Relating to denim I chose to write
about cotton, because it is the fiber used for making denim. It is important as
a purchaser in the fashion industry to know about the types of cotton available, the properties and
the possible blends, because cotton it is a highly used fiber in many fabric
and designs, and might therefor be a part of a purchaser`s daily work.
I have also chosen to write about
two man – made fibers, lyocel and lycra, because these fibers can be used to
blend with cotton and will make a more durable denim than the original denim.
As well as cotton it is important to know about flexible fibers as lyocel and
Lycra, to make blend which can gives companies a better material for different
designs.
I have chosen to go further into the
quality testing of denim to know how to find the best quality denim as a
purchaser. Quality is a big issue when it comes to all company including the
clothing industry. It is therefore necessary for a purchaser which deals with
garments including denim to know how to look for a high quality denim garment. It
is important to know how to test and how to deal with quality issues regarding
denim to ensure that the quality level is ensured and to ensure satisfied
customers.
Composition, blends and types of
fiber, material and finished garments as well as quality testing is an
important knowledge which a purchaser should have at a fashion or textile
company to be professional towards the suppliers and to find the right
materials at the suppliers.
Today work- and outerwear are geared for outdoor life.
The clothing now a day protects against wind and rain, and still leaves the
body in a pleasant climate. Brands which have made developments with in this
area are; Sympatex and Gore-Tex – they have developed important requirements
for weather-proof clothing which are:
-Waterproof: protects against rain or snow
-Windproof: protects the body against cooling down,
being able to breath (perspiration is channeled out as water vapour and the
skin is able to breath) -Fashionable: An important factor for even workwear.
The membrane is hidden inside the clothing and is therefore easy to make
fashionable. It is the outer fabric that must be fashionable.
Membrane comes in many materials and structures.
Sympatex:
(the hydrophilic membrane) is made of polyester without pores. The surface is
closed and is therefore waterproof because no moisture from outside can get
through. In side there are moisture-absorbing molecules that transfers the
perspiration outwards. The difference between outside- and body temperature
ensures that the direction is correct.
Gore-Tex: (microporous
membrane) is made of synthetic material called: polytetraflouroethylene (also
known as Teflon). The microporous membrane has around 1.4 billion openings in
each single square centimeter. The small openings prevent rain or snow from
permeating inwards - in this case a rain drop 20.000 times bigger than the
membranes openings and can therefore get through one of the openings. But water
vapour particles are much smaller than the openings – therefore perspiration from
the skin can easily permeate the pores.
Different systems:
Upper material laminate
Membrane is a double layer laminate as the membrane is
bound directly to the upper material.
Insert laminate
The membrane is laminated on a light backing fabric
and worked between the upper material and lining for utmost protection against
weather.
Lining laminate
The membrane is bound to the inside lining.
Three-ply laminate
Both the upper material and the lining are bound to
the membrane. The manufactures of membrane wants to ensure that the
clothing is wind- and waterproof and have some instruction that has to be done.
An example could be that the seams must be laminated and pockets, press studs
and zippers must also be wind and waterproof.
The properties for a membrane are:
-Dry and warm -Good protection against the weather -Creates a pleasant body climate
Purchaser
The terminology of a membrane is important for a
purchaser to know if you are working in a company that makes work wear, rain clothing
or other sportswear that demands weather protection or the properties as the
membrane has.
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