Thursday, 28 February 2013

Milk fiber video

Hello dear classmates and teacher, here is my embarrassing video. Hope you will have a laugh :) P.S. I even have stage fear when no one is watching :D

Video: Flat Screen Printing

This video is about Flat Screen Printing

Functional clothing: Membrane


Functional clothing: Membrane
 
Today work- and outerwear are geared for outdoor life. The clothing now a day protects against wind and rain, and still leaves the body in a pleasant climate. Brands which have made developments with in this area are; Sympatex and Gore-Tex – they have developed important requirements for weather-proof clothing which are:

-Waterproof: protects against rain or snow
-Windproof: protects the body against cooling down, being able to breath (perspiration is channeled out as water vapour and the skin is able to breath)
-Fashionable: An important factor for even workwear. The membrane is hidden inside the clothing and is therefore easy to make fashionable. It is the outer fabric that must be fashionable.

Membrane comes in many materials and structures.

Sympatex: (the hydrophilic membrane) is made of polyester without pores. The surface is closed and is therefore waterproof because no moisture from outside can get through. In side there are moisture-absorbing molecules that transfers the perspiration outwards. The difference between outside- and body temperature ensures that the direction is correct.

Gore-Tex: (microporous membrane) is made of synthetic material called: polytetraflouroethylene (also known as Teflon). The microporous membrane has around 1.4 billion openings in each single square centimeter. The small openings prevent rain or snow from permeating inwards - in this case a rain drop 20.000 times bigger than the membranes openings and can therefore get through one of the openings. But water vapour particles are much smaller than the openings – therefore perspiration from the skin can easily permeate the pores.

Different systems:
 
Upper material laminate
Membrane is a double layer laminate as the membrane is bound directly to the upper material.

Insert laminate
The membrane is laminated on a light backing fabric and worked between the upper material and lining for utmost protection against weather.

Lining laminate
The membrane is bound to the inside lining.

Three-ply laminate
Both the upper material and the lining are bound to the membrane.
The manufactures of membrane wants to ensure that the clothing is wind- and waterproof and have some instruction that has to be done. An example could be that the seams must be laminated and pockets, press studs and zippers must also be wind and waterproof.

The properties for a membrane are:
-Dry and warm
-Good protection against the weather
-Creates a pleasant body climate

Purchaser
The terminology of a membrane is important for a purchaser to know if you are working in a company that makes work wear, rain clothing or other sportswear that demands weather protection or the properties as the membrane has.

Source
http://www.ivc-ev.de/live/index.php?page_id=74

 

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

Textile Testing: Solar UV protective

 Textile Testing: Solar UV protective


Do you love to spend time in the sun? Must people do as its important for the human health by giving D- vitamin which is important for the bone structure but also to have a nice tan. But unfortunately there is a downside by spending time in the sun.
The ultraviolet can give skin cancer!

Skin cancer has in the last decade been a big issue in the medias and alone in Germany experts have estimated that every year 200.000 new cases of skin cancer will show up. In the last couple of years the need for UV protecting in clothing has increased! The test for UV Solar is called:  UV Standard 801

When testing for a reliable UPF, there are certain thing that has to be taken into concideration before testing:

-Stretching of fabric during wear
-Moisture from perspiration
-Water and wear during use
-Aftercare of the textile

Therefore the fabric/material which is being tested is laundered, wet during measurement and stretched in a specified manner, to make sure the testing is correct.
 
There are several ways to test for UW protection and another way is by a test called: EN 13758-1 (2007) - here the fabric/material which is being tested dry and new.


The test have several calculations and expression of the result. When talking about UV testing the waves of the sun is measured by:

UV-A Ultraviolet radiation with wavelength between 315 and 400 nm
UV-B Ultraviolet radiation with wavelength between 280 and 315 nm
Waves under 200 nm is captured by the air!

Purchaser:
The reason why it is important to know something about UV testing is that if you are working as a purchaser for a company where UV testing is important. Some market demands UV testing and is more keen to know more about UV testing. Etc. Australia is a country with a lot of focus on UV protection and have had big campaign againt sunbathing and proction against skin cancer. 
 
Source:
http://www.uvstandard801.com/en/uv_standard_801/uv_radiation/naturaluvradiation_/naturaluvradiation.html
http://www.dmi.dk/dmi/uv-straaling_og_uv-indeks-5.pdf

Fabric: Bouclé


Bouclé fabric

Bouclé is French and means “to curl”, “buckled” or “ringed”. The yarn has a fine bumpy texture is usually made of two to three stands; one of the stands is a bit looser than the others. Then the loose stand strands forms the stick to the other stand and to each other. The following procedure creates the full texture and in combination with colours, the texture will be very colourfull.

Bouclé are either knitted or woven fabric with is characterized by a looped or knitted surface that has a spongy effect.  The term Bouclé also applies to a huge variety of looped, curled or slubbed yarns. 

The first bouclé fabric was made by Channel when she produced a bouclé jacket in finely textured wool.  Since then bouclé fabrics has been popular to use for jackets, dresses and for costumes.

Purchaser
This type of fabric is important for a purchaser to know as it sometimes is referred to as the channel jacket.  It has recently been used more and more by the shops as H&M and Zara. As a purchaser it is important to have knowledge of the different types of fabric and their appearance.  The knowledge will provide the purchaser with a more professional in the negotiation and the daily work with the supplier.


Source:
http://www.textileglossary.com/terms/boucle.html
http://suite101.com/article/how-to-knit-or-crochet-with-boucle-yarn-a190958

Fiber: Modal


Modal (modified viscose)


History
Modal fibers were developed in the 1930´s, mainly for the tire industry. Changes happens in the viscose processing which were the spin conditions, chemical solution and the stretching sequence and created a fiber with increased crystalline and greater strength. Some years after in 1951 new developments in Japan lead to a production of viscose of a high wet modulus. The Modal fibers are stable and do not shrink of get out of shape when wet like viscose.

Modal are made by spinning of bio-based fiber from beech wood trees
Modal is the generic name for modified viscose. The advantages of the fiber are:
-Softness and silky feel
-Good drape
-Comfortable to wear
-Form is steady
-50% more water-absorbent that cotton
-Colour-fast when washed in warm water

The fibers of Modal are good to use in materials for exercise clothing and health suits, because the fibers has a good moisture regain and air permission, it can therefore sometimes be considered better than cotton. Textiles made Modal do not pill and are resistant to shrinkage and fading. The textiles made of Modal are smooth and soft and has

Today the Modal is used in a huge variety in clothing, outwear and household furnishing often blended with cotton, wool or synthetic fibers. Modal needs to be ironed after wash, but has a relative easy care.

Purchaser
The knowledge of Modal and other materials alike is very important for a purchaser to know and to compare with the main materials a cotton and linen and wool. Often you will find Modal as a blend with of cotton or polyester because of its strength, uniformity and absorbency.

Source
http://www.aaatextiles.com/knit/Modal.html