Friday, 1 March 2013
Wool recyckling
Wool recycling
Recycled or in other terms remanufactured wool historically generated
from loosely woven materials. Benjamin Law has invented the shoddy and mungo in
England in 1813. He was the first one on the large scale to collect old clothes
and grind them into a fibrous state that could be re-spun into yarns.
Wool recycling process is similar to the cotton recycling process.
Recycled wool is a natural fiber reusing pre-consumer or post-consumer wool
waste. The pre-consumer wool waste is the waste that is left during the process
of manufacturing new garments, for example leftovers from factory cutting
rooms, excess/ unsold production. Post-consumer waste is coming from the consumer’s
household, for example home textile and used apparel.
The process of recycling wool first starts with separation and sorting
by color and quality. Afterwards the items are placed into the stripping machines
which brake the fabric into pieces. The fibers are then pulled apart and the
fiber mixture is carded several times to clean and mix the fibers before
spinning them into the yarns. The
carding process allows using even the sort fibers and it blends them into the
most variable compositions the result of this is that the yarn has the particular
aspect and properties differing to commonly used worsted yarn. The recycles
wool may be mixed with raw wool, wool noil, or other fibers
such as cotton and the meaning of this mix is to increase the average fiber length.
This type of yarns is usually used as weft yarns with cotton warp. [1][2]
Also I have found an interesting article about wool recycling:
Cardato
regenerated co2 neutral is the world’s first certified ‘zero
emissions’ textile product. It is made with recycled wool from the Prato
District and has limited impact on the environment. Carbon emissions are
calculated and then offset through the purchase of green credits.
Carding is a specific way of processing fibers.
The yarns are produced using virgin fibers but also reusing fibers obtained
from recycling old clothing or knits, and cuttings of new fabrics used in the
garment industry. The important feature of this process is that it can use
short fibers and different lengths, in blends of the most variable composition.
The result is a yarn with a particular aspect that distinguishes it from the
other type of yarn knows as worsted.
Regenerated wool provided, for over a century, a phenomenal opportunity for the development and growth of the textile district of Prato on world markets.
Regenerated wool provided, for over a century, a phenomenal opportunity for the development and growth of the textile district of Prato on world markets.
The techniques of the “recycling process” in
addition to being fascinating to watch indicate a culture that has concern for
the environment, respect for human resources and a tradition of skill and
serious professional entrepreneurship.
The use of regenerated fibers has been neglected in recent years with the discovery of new synthetics and the growing demand for more expensive virgin fibers, partly as the response to expanding economies and also to the new consumer logic.
The use of regenerated fibers has been neglected in recent years with the discovery of new synthetics and the growing demand for more expensive virgin fibers, partly as the response to expanding economies and also to the new consumer logic.
In the carding process, this has led to
increased creativity and the production of yarns that are even more unusual and
precious in compositions with an inimitable fashion content. We now have
“carded products in cashmere, angora, alpaca, mohair or other fine wools in
blends with silk and viscose.
SORTING
The used clothing or cuttings of new fabrics
used by the garment industry are sorted according to quality and color. In some
cases linings, buttons, zippers, etc., have to be removed from the clothing.
This is an important aspect of the process where the “hand and eye” of the
expert worker are essential.
CARBONIZING
Carbonizing is a process that eliminates any
vegetable impurities from the wool. Rags and cuttings are dry cleaned with
hydrochloric acid, while new wool fiber is soaked in sulfuric acid. The treated
fabrics or staples are then beaten to eliminate the carbonized particles.
TEARING
In this
process, the rags become fiber again by being mechanically torn and washed: the
two operations are carried out in tanks where the rags are forced by the
current of the water through two pairs of cylinders with steel teeth that tear
them. The fiber in then dried.[3]
Linen wrinkling
Linen
has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily, explaining why it
wrinkles so easily.[1]
The
molecules of water bonds with cellulose moleculs easily and this creates the
wrinkle problems in linen. A splash of water on an untreated linen fabric and
the water molecules insinuate into the polymer chains, destabilizing the
existing bond. When the fabric starts to dry, new bonds starts to form. The
rearranged chains leave the fabric with wrinkles or creases depending if the
fabric was folded as it dired. Added heat accelerates the process of fast
shrinking. Meanwhile while heat and
water causes wrinkles, they are also working in the reverse efect of removing
wrinkles. It is impossible to get rid of the wrinkles from a dry linen fabric,
neither its possible to remove the wrinkles with only hot iron. Is the wetting is included in the ironing
process the wrinkles are easily removed by rearanging the wrinkled bond. The
explanation to this si that adding water swells the fabric fibers, breaking the
hydrogen bonds that reated the fabrics wrinkles furthermore heat again speeds
up the proess. Due to the fact that linen absorbs wter wery easily and it is
not an elastic type of fiber it tends to form a sharp wrikles as it dries,
furthermore with repeated wrinkling linen fibers war and break along the fold.[2]
To assess the wrinkle for the
linen an ISO 15487 test should be applied. And the process of the wrinkle test.
The test specimen is a piece of fabric in this case a piece of linen fabroc.
Appropriate light and evaluation area and American association of textile
chemist and colorists standard smoothness appearance replicas prepared for
evaluating appearance. The procedure is to wash and dry one out of three
specimen four to five times. And during the first four washing and drying
cycles the specimen should be ironed to remove wrinkles but the procedure
shouldn’t be done after the fifth washing and drying. The specimen should be
hanged for 4 hours straightening and smoothing facings and seams. After the
four hour period the specimen should be compared to the replicas according to
the ISO 15487 test regulations.
In
the picture below you can see the replica that is used to assess the wrinkle
level and description.
[1] ISO 15487 textiles method for assesing appearance of
apparel and other textile end products after domestic washing and drying.
Linen Fabric
History
Continuing with my blog about flax I am making a post about linen the
fabric that is produced from flax yarns. The linen textiles are one of the
oldest ones in the world. The history goes back many thousands of years. There
were found fragments of seeds, fibers, yarns and multiple types of fabrics
which date back to 800 BC they have been found in Swiss lake.
Characteristics
The production of linen is labor intense but the manufactured garment
has properties of coolness and freshness in warm weather. The explanation to
this fact is that it evaporates water very quickly and before giving the
feeling of being wet, linen fabric can absorb as much as 20% of its dry weight.
The linen fabric weight is usually labeled as handkerchief weight, medium
weight or heavy weight:
·
Handkerchief
weight 3-4 oz. = 85-113 grams.
·
Medium
(shirt) weight 4.5-6.5 oz = 127-184 grams.
·
Heavy
or “bottomweight” 7-8 oz. = 199 – 227 grams.
Linen also has antiallergic properties it absorbs
water very well. And the negative
downside effect of linen is the high level or wrinkling it is due to the fact
that the yarns are strong and not elastic. The interesting thing is that after
each washing the fabric becomes softer and less wrinkly. The recommendation for
ironing the linen is to do it inside out.
The long flax fibers have a natural vegetable wax coating therefore it
creates a subtle sheen when woven together in a textile. Linens natural
off-white color tolerates dyes well and retains its color without fading. The
natural fibers of flax make the woven textile a bit bumpy with a smooth finish.
Linen fiber dry very fast therefore fabric has not only the property of coolness
but as well as the warmth property therefore it is used for the bed linen and
pajamas. Linen fabric also is known for it being “skin” friendly duo to the
fact that it is best for the kin microclimate, for example it is permeable to
air, absorbs dampness and sweat very quickly. Flax cells are highly compatible
with human cells therefore it produces a benevolent effect on human organism.
Linen used as bed linen reduces fatigue and lifts spirits furthermore according
to medical testing’s and studies bed-ridden patients do not develop bedsores
where linen bed sheets are used, also wearing linen clothes helps o get rid of
some skin diseases like common rash or chronic eczemas.
Lines has high air permeability and conductivity properties, the heat
conductivity of linen is five times higher than wool and 19 times as silk, so
in hot weather those who wear linen clothes are found to be 3-4 degree C below
of the cotton cloth wearing. Person wearing linen clothes perspire 1.5 times
less than people who are dressed in cotton clothes and twice as less than the
ones who wears viscose clothes. Furthermore in a cold weather linen clothes are
ideal warmth keepers.
Also an interesting finding that is not connected with fashion or the
clothing industry is that linen is resistant to static electric load therefore
it is being used for protective garments of the astronauts and for the
protection of spaceship outside. Flax fabric is a very good filter for
protection from the chemically aggressive medium, noise and dust. Linen reduces
gamma radiation nearly by half and has a property to protect human organism
against solar radiation. The study showed that the flax fibers from
contaminated soils appear not to have even traces of radiation.
In some way linen is similar to cotton so therefore I have found some
facts in which linen fabric is more positive than cotton and the facts are:
·
Linen
fabrics are three times stronger than cotton fabrics.
·
Linen
fabrics are five times more resistant to rubbing than cotton fabrics.
·
Linen
fabrics absorb dampness and sweat better than cotton fabrics.
·
Linen
fabric is more ecological than cotton, Linen is the product which does not
leave waste and does not make that significant harm to ecology and nature.
Linen is naturally Eco friendly duo to the fact that flax requires less water
and fewer pesticides than cotton. Being a natural fiber, linen is recyclable
and biodegradable.
I
Linen
costs varies widely and the cost of it mostly depends on the fiber quality ad
the density of the weave. From 2010 the lower-end linen which is rougher than
fine woven linen costs aprox 13$ per yard. The type of garents that would be
produced out of this linen would be everyday household linens and clothing.
The
linen that is more finely woven would be lighter, smoother and has more sheen
has a remarcably higher price of 99$ price per yard. This type of linen is used
for example in the high-end fashion clothing, baptismal gouns and heirloom
household items. [1][2][3][4][5]
Theo yarn
Theo yarn
Fur like yarn, great for trendy cowls, cuffs, scarves and other warm accessories.
Right on
trend with the recognized fur accessories in ready-to-wear. The wool &
acrylic blend is both warm and soft next to the skin. Soft sophisticated shade
range, neutrals with color undertones - great as statement accessory pieces or
worked together. The yarn is rich in texture while remaining smooth to knit and
crochet with.
Content: 45% Wool, 45%
Acrylic, 10% Nylon
Ball
Weight: 3.5
oz (100 g)
Length: 39 yd / 35 m
Length: 39 yd / 35 m
Price: 8-11$
Knitting Tension
6 sts - 8 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Crochet Tension
6 sts - 7 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Suggested Knitting Needle
10.00 mm, US - 15
Suggested Crochet Hook
10.00 mm, US - N/15
6 sts - 8 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Crochet Tension
6 sts - 7 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Suggested Knitting Needle
10.00 mm, US - 15
Suggested Crochet Hook
10.00 mm, US - N/15
Care: Dry flat Hand wash, Do not iron.
Thursday, 28 February 2013
Devore - Burn out
Devore
- Burn out
Burnout
is a brocade-like pattern fabrics that had some of the fibres dissolved through
a chemical process. The technique for making burnout fabrics was developed in
France in the early 20th century. In the fashion industry, it is known by the
name devore.
The most common chemical used cellulose fiber is
sulfuric acid, which is mixed into a colorless print paste.
The substance printed on a certain pattern will
destroy the fibers where the chemical is printed on the fabric. While the ground
fabric leaves unharmed.
The burnout technique can be done in different ways.
Fibers etch works well on rayon/silk, hemp/silk and other blends of cellulose
protein fabrics.
The technique creates a unique look for jacket,
scarves, coats and skirts. Brocade and velvet is materials often used for
burnout. The materials have thick pile, helping the pattern to stand out much
more.
Useful knowledge, especially for purchasers dealing with womenswear. Devore used in proper way may be an element of modern fashion.
Sources
Ado USA. Fabric types. http://www.ado-usa.com/DesignGuide/FabricTypes.aspx
[28.02.2012]
Wikipedia. Burnout clothing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burnout_(clothing)
[28.02.2012]
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